Honda pioneer 700 battery replacement
How to replace battery coil on MZ - R501
2023.06.10 22:56 Puzzled_Chicken_5306 How to replace battery coil on MZ - R501
Any know to replace the battery coil on this model or part number for the battery could?
submitted by Puzzled_Chicken_5306
to minidisc [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:54 donron024 [US-CA] [H] 3DSXL, GBC, 2DS, NES box, TOTK CE, Amiibos and various games [W] Switch console and random games
submitted by donron024
to gameswap [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:54 Cool_Business_3872 Repair Suggestions
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So, I recently wrecked my EUC (Begode Master), after it cut out while I was braking during wobbles. (It was all bad, I know.) I was going about 27-29mph. The brake light was shattered, kickstand bracket bent, and little lip of plastic near one of the screws in the lower part of the batter pack was bent…other than that, I thought that was all..until I got home and removed the kickstand bracket, and tried bending it back into shape to where it wasn’t close to the tire, and it—I initially .…it sounds like the tiny, thin little nibs of rubber on the tread of the tire are rubbing up against the inside area of the battery pack, when I’d brake/go backwards, i’d hear the sound of rubber and plastic squeaking together. submitted by Cool_Business_3872 to ElectricUnicycle [link] [comments]
I removed the kickstand bracket for a second time, and flipped the wheel over. The tire/motor seem much closer on one side of the wheel than the other…i know that wheels can look off-center, but I am trying to figure out id what I am seeing is normal, if something else is bent and needs to be replaced. After removing the the kickstand bracket, I the squeaking of rubbeplastic is not happening when I brake/go backwards, and the wheel seems to be riding fine, but I believe there is a slight bulge in the innertube from the impact after the wreck…
I will place some photos, and if others with Begode Masters, or individuals with experience repairing wheels/Begode Masters could please take a look, I’d be greatly appreciative. So far, Ewheel has sent me a new brake-light lens/cover, and a new controller just to be safe, due to the cut-out while braking, but with the photos I have sent, and the 3-4 request for insight & suggestions, and a request for a new kickstand bracket, they still have not responded…I know they’re busy, so I am trying not to bother them, so this is my next option. Also, I live in Austin Texas, so if anyone knows of individuals who offer repairs in the area, please let me know…
Again, the wheel seems to be riding fine, even with a little bulge in the inner-tube, but I want to get reassurance that it’s good to go, before I go out on a ride that goes faster than 25mph and a ride further than 3-5miles.
What do you see? Is there anything that makes you think something needs to be replaces aside from the parts sent, or the inner tube, which will be replaced soon?
2023.06.10 22:50 Glum-Kale-8120 2012 Volvo S60 Not Starting
Apologies for the length of this post, but I want to provide all the detail I can.
The car in question is a 2012 Volvo S60 T5 with 99,500 miles on the odo. My daughter called me two weekends ago to tell me her car starting shaking while in a Starbucks drive through. I told her to park it and I would go look at it. From what she described, I figured it was a cylinder misfire. The car is from the generation of Volvo 5-cylinders that are oil burners, but I did not think it had anything to do with that as I have tried to train her to check the oil and stay on top of it.
When I got to the car, I tried to crank it to see the issue for myself, but it would only turn over for a few seconds and then stop trying to crank. I checked the oil and it was low, but only about half a quart.
I had the car towed to my home, and last weekend I replaced the ignition coil packs and spark plugs and put in a new battery as the old one was 5 years old (in Florida heat) and was testing marginal. When I went to crank the car, I got a click, but nothing else. The click was not the multiple clicks of a low battery charge, just a single click/thunk kind of sound.
I did some Google-fu and determined it was likely a starter issue, so I pulled the starter and had it tested, and it was indeed bad. So, I replaced the starter, after hand-cranking the crankshaft to ensure the engine was not seized, and voila, the engine cranked over. The car did not, however, start. After checking the spark plugs to make sure they were gapped well and that the wiring connections to the coils packs were solid, I tried again today to crank the car, and nothing but a click again.
I am smelling fuel and I know the battery is good because I took it back to AutoZone to be tested. The starter is new, too, so I now find myself out of ideas. The car is not throwing any codes other than those from battery disconnection that I cleared.
So, anyone have any ideas about what to look for next? I just purchased new cars for my daughters last week due to this issue, so I am just trying to get the Volvo running so I can sell it. I appreciate any insight the folks on this sub can provide.
submitted by Glum-Kale-8120
to autorepair [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:47 neekogo Replaced the "non-user-replaceable" battery on my Android
My almost 3 yr old Moto One Action battery life was dying a lot quicker in the last few weeks. New phone would be about $200-$300, new battery and risking a dead phone ~$18. Being a geek I figured Id take the risk as I've repaired a few electronics in my time. I made sure everything was backed up before starting and with help from YouTube I can say my phone is back and operational. Maybe in another 2 years or so I'll buy a new phone but for now my phone works for me even if it's only running Android 10.
The US really needs to follow EU's lead on making phones more user repairable. I'd wager most people don't use the full capability of their $1000+ phones
submitted by neekogo
to Frugal [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:45 TonyMcTony [Pyanodon] Py Sci Pack 2 automated at 190 hours
| || | submitted by TonyMcTony to factorio [link] [comments]
Since I sunk so many hours into this mod, thought I'd provide a sort of journal entry for my progress. This will be a long-ish post, so if you are not interested in my horrible life decisions, just scroll through and enjoy the pictures. I hope with this post, i can give some insight to the people behind me progressing in the modpack. And i hope to keep myself sane enough to keep going and write about my adventures to the next sci pack milestone, and eventually Pyrrhic Victory! Background:
I started Factorio about a year ago, didn't really like it at first when i was playing through the tutorial, and actually stopped. I remember thinking "wow I just pipe water to the boiler, add some coal and my stuff are all powered?" that was sort of a turn off for me. But then after giving it another try, i decided to stick with it and try to launch a rocket.
I played the default setting at first, and didn't like the pacing. I found myself advancing too fast through the tech tree. I got halfway through Blue science and didn't even really have a solid production of the components yet and felt like i was drowning. I restarted with marathon mode and it really clicked for me. Letting me learn about the basics before giving access to too many toys. In that mode i learned about dual loading belts, blueprints, trains (signals and station limits), and making 'somewhat' tileable/expandable productions. I didn't get into bots and i don't think i will. I only used Logistic bots to refill my inventory from malls and construction bots to remotely adjust my mining outposts.
Launched the rocket in my marathon mode, and decided to seek more! Before i thought to jump into the big mod packs, i tried to do a marathon mode Space Extension game to learn about scaling. Wow that was not for me. I got incredibly bored of making the same thing in larger scales so i quit.
So i looked for the next best thing in the list. Saw this Pyanodon pack and said, why not. Jumped straight in. The run:
I started my foray into PY a few months before PyAE came out, and was sort of glad that i did around this time, so i didn't have to re-learn everything. I didn't really get too deep into PYAL yet. I had a few restarts due to realizing a lot of my errors, and decided to stop restarting about the same time the Caravan patch came in. The Caravans were so much fun, i stopped having any thoughts of quitting the mod.
I started the game with the Py default settings (no biters and no pollution... my computer is old), and tried to keep it as pure as possible. The only mods i used other than the full PyAE pack were:
- Even distribution (to save my mouse and index finger during the burner phase... clicking all the coal was a pain in the ash)
- Vehicle Snap (There is a lot of driving in this game, i think that's what Py intended... for you to explore. I got tired of veering off and hitting my electric poles so i made 1 tile wide brick "highways" to aid my driving, and use the mod to snap in the cardinal directions)
- To-Do list (I actually didn't use this mod much... i felt like i needed a to-do list to write the to-do list, so i gave up trying to make use of this)
- Playtime+ (Time flies fast when you're having fun. And this lets you see that :))
Since the devs of this mod pack revel in pain and suffering, i thought by keeping it as lean as possible, it would fulfill that goal. I've never used any of the other recipe searching or planning or calculator mods, i'll explain it later on if i remember....
*Sidenote about RSO* The base game resource generation is a bit janky when it comes to PY. I had to roll the map a few times because i'd say 5/10 the starting resource patches would overlap and you'd have an impossibly hard start if there's not enough iron or copper. While RSO solves this, it messes up spawning of the farther resources (So you can get unlucky and have no Zinc spawn closeby, but also on the flip side, lucky and trivialize the early game power puzzle if you get a Geothermal water spot that spawn 3-5 patches in a spot, you can run a centrifuge without any powerplans if you get 3-4 spots of 3-5 patches of geothermal! [Py default will only spawn 1 as they are very powerful in early science])
Here's the full map that i've explored. To find far resources (Salt/sulfuGeothermal etc.) i set up a fishturbine+radar in the 4 cardinal directions, let them scan fully, then move them clockwise to the intercards, let them scan, and etc. it was quite effective.
Here's a closer look at the main area, with tags to identify general purpose of the spot Base showcase:
K enough babbling, onto the important stuff.
Start with the achievement - Py Sci 2 automated. I was going to get it under 190 but i forgot to ship my mechanical parts lol.
A better view of the area. Primers, Retrovirus&DNA Polymerase, Good alien Sample and Py Sci 2. Eventually i might export science packs through that pre-planned train station (i.e. move PY sci 2 to Chem sci). Borders with the Arqad area since i needed vrauk cocoons and Arqad Venom
Self sustained Arqad area. Makes its own ingredients for Vrauks and its food. I ship in Ralesia/Flora and Tin with Caravans, and have a train station bringing in red-hot coke and the Arqad combs
Further down south from Arqad, i have my Korlex milk (& Casein/Tuuphra), Zipir, Paragen, Flavanoid makers. I had a tiny amount of fish makers here and quickly realized that it was quickly overwhelmed... had to expand another fish factory. The line of biomass will eventually reach my intended biomass processing area. For now it is not backing up anything (got one of those 800 slot warehouses holding animal parts [see my log sci area later]. I will make that biomass processing area soon....
Further away, at another tin patch, i started a fish factory. Here is also where i tried to play with the Aerial Discharge base. They are quirky but sorta not that worth it. I use 3 to go between this tin outpost (steam to mine) and my glassworks outpost to make steam to process tar (next screen)
I realized that glass is getting used more and more and i needed to ship it (Mech parts, Biosamples, etc.) So eventually i had to create this little outpost where it receives overflow fuels (Petroleum and Gasoline) and also on site tar processing and burn all the fuel byproducts (Anthracene, aromatics, carbolic etc.) I ship out the pitch and creosote to help make red science bricks and sand casting and rails. The Aerial base here is the other end of the path from the Tin patch for fish. Steam is used to break down tar. I ship in syngas to power the oil burner for steam with an underflow.
Biosample and redhot coke to the Arqad/Py Sci 2 area from before. I never automated Biosample before this (can easily hand craft for the initial ones for synthesis of Alien Life). Caravans bring in Titanium/Steel and Lead. Train ships in glass. At this point i started REALLY voiding stuff since it was getting too complicated to hook them all up to be used. Yes i can bring this muddy sludge to my moss area but it was not worth it. I never void anything with fuel values though (Except trace hydrogen in remote spots) since you can easily hook it up to overflow to a oil burner -> Steam engine.
On to the best part (in my opinion). My Mechanical Parts 1 subfactory. I use 6 caravans here. My rationale is that these ingredients are used in small amounts, so 200 brains (200 round trips) of 1500+++ ingredients each trip should last me a life time. I ship in: Quartz Ore, Green circuits, Zinc plate, Rubber, Solder, and Tin plates. The Small parts and copper caravan outposts are exporter stations. I ship in glass from rails, make plastic from the wastewater from the Fish factory you saw earlier. AND....
I have a 'Janktown Express' train that brings in 4 obscure ingredients to the Mech parts factory. It brings in Titanium (just because its in the area) with the three ingredients requiring Antimony Oxide - Vitreloy (Brakes), Iron-Nex-Antimony (Shaft) and Lead-Antimony (Batteries).
This is the original 'Janktown Express'. My very first train that i used to take 4 components to the Logistic Science area from the Antimony area. To this day this train is still on its own rail line and not connected to the main rail grid. Sorta like those 100 year old historic trolley trains that run through a main City. Side areas:
Onto the other parts of my base, if you're still interested.
Here's the Logistic sci factory area that the Janktown express drops off the 4 components to. The Auog/vrauk slaughter houses are just south and ships all the chopped up parts into a giant warehouse where it supplies the animal sample maker. Circuitry sends overflow parts to the composter for biomass. Cottonguts and Moondrops are just north (not pictured) Here's my Niobium area that i rushed since i was DYING for the niobium underground pipes. (Not sure if you noticed how much F-in pipes i have in my base yet). It's coupled with the oil sands processing area where i turn oil sands into Syngas. I like this avenue because it let's me use up all the waste products in my base. (Most) stone, and all gravel and sand are shipped here to make Filtration media/Activated Carbon. Stone is crushed into Gravel and excess gravel crushed into sand. Activated carbon turns the flue gas that Oil Sand processing produces into Syngas, and Filtration media turns the Bitumen from Oil sands into Syngas as well. It does mean i cannot burn syngas for nothing (like just using it as fuel for glass/smelters) as it WILL eat up all the stone/gravel/sand. Also have to ship in Zinc and Carbon Dust (from my Coal power plant area) via caravans
Py Sci 1 maker with some landfill spaghetti before i was able to reliably mass produce landfill. I vent chlorine here since there's no good use for it (yet), and you will get A TON of it from NaOH.
Here's the bulk of my power generation. I have only 3 geothermal deposits so far but even they are not able to power one centrifuge. (3 geo = ~150MW, 1 centrifuge = 207MW). This power plant provides 118x6 MW, produces ash in big quantities (and ships them out). Coal processing lets me mass produce coke through Red Hot Coke, and tons of coal dust for the Filtration Media area from before. I ended up making trees here, i think it was because of Coke -> CO2. I originally wanted to make bricks here as well (ash -> rich clay) for when i really need to jack up red science but i never followed through... i think it was not as efficient use of ash as i thought. I ship out coke here for train fuel, since you will make a LOT of them. Also i ship out hot air here as well to the smelter area.
I really appreciate the tar deposits since there's a very simple tech that lets you make simple power setups. Tar + Vacuum = Coke + Heavy oil will let you run both Oil and Coal power plants to make power in a compact setup. the Tar deposits don't look like they will run out anytime soon either. I might make more of these tar deposits around the map later on. (I haven't touched crude oil yet, but will probably do so next). Nat gas (the last of the 3 bitumen seep resources) is required for Arqads.
and Finally, a wide shot of the (starter) centre of my base, based around the crashed ship. This shows the seaweed/moss/ralesia areas better as well as the Auog/Vrauk areas, and Cottongut/Moondrop areas up top. The middle right side area was a LOT more congested with early smelting but i eventually moved them out to another area. Yes there's a lot of slaked lime pooled up that i am waiting for the next research (salt products) to use them. (Hope you like the creative use of landfill to cross lakes). Final Word:
Some regrets that i had, and thought i'd share:
- I really liked Caravans since they had near instant transfer (Faster than any stacked inserters... 1500 items per swing!). But i think i had a misguided vision when i used them for delivering raw ores to my smelting lines. They will require more maintenance from me (putting brains/food in them) as usage goes up. I am not looking forward to squeezing trains in to replace those caravans. But caravans for low quantity items are still amazing for their simplicity.
- I probably automated Py sci 2 too early? I still have a lot of Log sci techs to go lol. Still have Phosphorous, MIBC, Molybdenum, guar and lubricant techs to research (and the TURD upgrades, if im interested in any). I remember i was completely done with Py1 sciences before i got my first Log sci pack at around 50 hours.
- I hopped into Quartz 2 WAY TOO EARLY. i totally underestimated the amount of fine sand you need. My god you need a lot. It really crippled my petri dish making capabilities (and then crippled my Py Sci 1). I made a ton of sand makers and then ended up with a billion muddy sludge, and i finally gave in to voiding it indiscriminately (Overflow valve -> sinkhole). This might be the reason why i still have so many log sci techs to research. I will likely hook up the glass outpost to dump molten glass to my py sci 1 area before long.
- Not taking the time to learn and figure out how to deal with creatures that use 10++ barrels of liquids and barreling machines. I had my arqad/korlex facilities back up so many times because the barreling machine was full and they could not take out any more empty barrels causing a jam. I think eventually i realized that those facilities do not start taking any ingredients in until it shits out all the empty barrels. Once i started paying attention to this fact, i was able to solve this headache.
Some words for the dev team:
- This modpack is amazing. I think not using any QOL mods really makes this modpack shine. I believe using calculators or recipe searchers, just basically turn this masterpiece into building Ikea furniture. I.e. you look up Py Sci 2, it spells out exactly what you need to make it and which buildings, and then you just follow it to the tee, place them one after the other, hook them up and voila, you (after a long time) have Py Sci 2.
- The buff to reinforced concrete, while INCREDIBLE (i can zip from one side of my base to the other, and don't have to rely on a car and avoid crashing into my own shit), made all the other cool tiles obsolete. Reinforced concrete is comparably much easier to make, and give the max speed (350%), while the other tiles (asphalt/iron oxide tile/etc.) give only 250% or matches the 350%. The higher tier cooler tiles should go up to even 500%. Also, i am not sure if the better tiles give faster driving speeds too? that would be nice too (if you don't rely on trains to get around).
- Caravans. Whoever made Caravans able to path through trees and pipes, made these guys so much fun to use. I remember before this minipatch, i had to design my buildings in ways that the caravan ogres don't get stuck. Now they almost always are able to find a way through unless you put overflow/underflow valves in tight pipe setups or they get stuck on another caravan lol.
- Solar and Tidal power seems a bit weak (at least at mk1). They are a pain to make and only give 5?MW (AND variable). Maybe if you bite the bullet and make a TON of them right when it makes sense to, it will pay off eventually, but so far the coal and oil powerplants overshadow the renewables. I assume when i get the processed biomass up and running it will be one more strike against Solar and Tidal.
Finally, i hope to continue this amazing modpack and maybe one day make that "PY COMPLETED" post like some of you have done so already. I really cannot believe how fast those guys who posted the PY COMPLETED posts have beaten this pack! PYAE only came out in december 2022? I cannot remember how many times i open the game, look at one of the recipes and immediately went to bed. I think it there were a good 3 or 4 times where i opened up the recipe for Good Alien Samples at night after coming home from work, take a look, and just shut the game down.
If you made it this far down the post, thanks for reading and hope you enjoyed this post as much as i enjoyed playing Py.
2023.06.10 22:43 dan_halfdan 99 Toyota Camry how to disable antitheft system
I've replaced the battery and alternator after suffering a break down. However whenever i finish hooking up the battery the anti theft alarm goes off and wont let me start the car. How do i disable it?
submitted by dan_halfdan
to AskAMechanic [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:40 ComoEstanBeaches Radio issues on my 1997 Tracker
I was switching the headlights on and off on my 1997 Geo Tracker, and the radio died at the exact same time. I checked the Radio fuse in the footwell and it appeared to be in good shape. Any thoughts on what else might be wrong? I did recently replace the 80A battery fuse, but I don’t think that would make a difference.
submitted by ComoEstanBeaches
to geotracker [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:32 Steve_Gray Emerald and Sapphire Stopped working after replacing battery?
So yeah I have some solder skills and now both my games won't work. Why?
submitted by Steve_Gray
to Gameboy [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:31 HainActivity Misuse of a Tuya light switch for HA as alternative for e.g. Zigbee buttons
| || | submitted by HainActivity to homeassistant [link] [comments]
May be not everyone is aware of it...
but you can use a Tuya-Wifi light switch like this also for devices without real cables thus HA devices.
I use only one of them for power lines and the other one (or more) for just sending a command to ha. By this way I can now switch my ceiling lamp via real power lines and my additional uplights via zigbee/wifi or RF (depending on what options are available for HA).
Big plus - you can use LocalTuya for the switch.
Since I haven't read anything about it here so far - and wasn't 100% sure at first that it works, I thought it might interesting one or the other...to replace some e.g. battery powered Zigbee switches/buttons.
2023.06.10 22:28 Delicious_Media_5082 2020 civic si coupe
Just bought my civic 6 months ago thought it was stock what the dealers told me my transmission ended up having to be replaced now come to find out from Honda that my car was modified had a stage 2 clutch and e85 flex fuel kit just wasn’t set up to be used so clearly the car was being raced and now I need to buy a new transmission any suggestions or help you guys can give would be appreciated
submitted by Delicious_Media_5082
to 10thGenCivics [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:27 Upshaq [WTS] PA GLX 1-6 w/ PLX 30mm mount/top mount red dot, Knights RIS Rails with vert. grips, Magpul Moe grip/metal trigger guard
Zelle preferred. Prices are shipped and insured, dibs rules apply. Offers welcome, I’m open to trades as well, but cash is king. Let me know if pricing is off. Primary Arms GLX 1-6 w/ PLX 30mm mount/ top mount red dot
. Raptor reticle Serial Number
Basically a new setup, very little use from previous owner. I used it for a bit, but I just prefer my PLX 1-8. Glass has some dust on it, but no scratchers or blems. Mount is rock solid, top mount rmr is the way 🦒. The red dot is a primary arms red dot, I’m not sure of the model. No battery included, I haven’t used it with one. No box or any goodies either, just what you see.
$700 shipped and insured
Product links: Glx 1-6 Plx 30mm mount Plx rmr mount Mini Reflex
WILL ONLY SPLIT THE OPTIC. I’ll be keeping the red dot/mount if the optic sells. But if someone wants the whole thing it’s theirs. KAC RIS Rails
Open to offers, and trade offers on these rails!
I have 2 OG Kac RIS rails available, one Vero beach marked, and the other Titusville. The Vero beach has a stripped screw pocket, and the Titusville has the screw. All parts in surplus condition, but the Vero has more salt. Vero has a Navy blue hue like the other Vero Ris rails I have. Titusville is Black. Lower Rails are a standard RIS bottom, or a UK SAS RIS numbered bottom. Also have P&s/Knights Grips as add ons only.
Will also sell with normal Ras bottoms for cheaper, just ask!
Titusville original set with screw and P&s grip.
Vero beach top with UK SAS RIS bottom
Add P&s grip for $20, or New Kac for $40
Or pick a top/bottom and make an offer! Magpul Moe grip/metal trigger guard
Unsure of amount of use, but seems low
Also have a WTB post here
submitted by Upshaq
to GunAccessoriesForSale [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:19 FinallyAGoodReply Battery replacement
I have a relatively new? 6Aah battery that won’t charge pass the first light. The problem is I don’t know which tool I got it with. Will DeWalt be able to figure that out and how long is their warranty on batteries? I do have some sort of proof of purchase for all of my tools.
submitted by FinallyAGoodReply
to Dewalt [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:18 MorningOwlK [Rant] Did I get unlucky, or is my experience typical?
Tldr; received two defective replacement mainboards and after an RMA, my keyboard suddenly died. Is this normal?
I have an original 11th gen Intel Framework from a pretty early batch. All was fine until the battery issue came up. You know the one; you don't use the device for two days and then it won't turn on unless plugged in, despite it being fully charged.
It was under warranty, and this was before Framework knew that this was a widespread design defect, so they shipped me a replacement mainboard.
The replacement mainboard (refurb board; had somebody else's Windows 10 home license tied to it) had a defective USB port; it would work for charging but wouldn't work for data. I spent a long time being jerked around by support before they decided yes, this is indeed a hardware issue and not software. We tried the usual fixes on my end and it didn't help. They sent another replacement mainboard.
The next replacement mainboard (apparently new, or so I was told) had a defective audio device. The audio never worked, through speakers or through the 3.5mm port. The audio was fine on all previous boards, so extremely unlikely that this was due to a software problem. Got jerked around for close to a month by support, but they eventually decided to RMA my whole laptop. They probably thought I was full of **** and was just trying to waste their time. Low and behold, I got an email from them that yes, the audio device was defective.
Got my laptop back. Everything is fine for a few days, then out of the blue, a few of the keys on my keyboard stop working. I plug in an external keyboard and it's all fine. I do the usual; reseat everything, disconnect/reconnect cables, etc. Sometimes it helps for a few minutes, but then the problem will come back.
I'm not going to bother contacting support because by now my laptop is far out of warranty. I'm buying a replacement cover kit. It's better than buying a whole new laptop but damn... I don't understand how every single time somebody in their refurb or quality control team touches something, it goes wrong on my end.
Am I alone in getting multiple lemon parts?
submitted by MorningOwlK
to framework [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:15 Mathwiz1697 Wave bird GCN controller question
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Hey y’all, trying to replace the stick box on this joystick of this wavebird GCN controller. The black plastic plate that hold the wireless and the battery terminals is blocking the solder joints of the potentiometers and stick box. I see black plastic tabs that appear to hold it in, but when I push them in, the black plastic refuses to pop loose, and I don’t wanna force it. Any ideas? YouTube isn’t helpful for this submitted by Mathwiz1697 to consolerepair [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:15 willy_der_schwimmer Where do I find a Honda “basic service manual”
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I have a 2022 Honda Grom. submitted by willy_der_schwimmer to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
My clutch lost grip progressively while on a mountain.
I bought a service manual and am attempting to inspect and possibly replace the clutch.
I hit a point in the manual where it refers to the “basic service manual”
Where do I get one of those?
2023.06.10 22:04 IcyBreadfruit2094 HELP: iphone keeps rebooting after housing swap
i swapped my iphone X's housing this afternoon, and now it keeps rebooting every 3 mins, i tried disconnecting everything and leaving only the battery and screen plugged in, same thing, i tried using a log tool, it says either power button flex or charging port flex, even with both disconnected, it keeps rebooting, someone help me out please, i dont want to replace the board, its a 256
submitted by IcyBreadfruit2094
to iPhoneX [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:03 GoldilocksBurns Maintenance items on a Honda Rebel 250 that's been sitting for a few years
I'm likely going to be learning to ride on my mom's old Rebel 250. It's a 2007, and she's owned it for five (ish) years. It's been sitting for the last three years since she upgraded, and in all honesty was likely sitting for a while in someone else's garage before she bought it. I want to get it back to happy running order fully before I hop on it, just for the sake of my sanity and stress levels, and also honestly it seems like fun.
It's not in bad condition currently. It starts up and the battery is just fine, but according to my mom and my partner, who've both ridden it fairly recently, the brakes are mushy. Probably needs a new brake pad in the front and whatever you do to refresh drum brakes in the rear? Also, something is up with the throttle and thus the bike does rev pretty high if you turn it the whole way to the right. Hilarious and probably not dangerous, but I would like to fix it if at all possible. Final weird item is that it apparently takes a good bit of force to shift into and out of neutral, but I'm not sure if that's just a quirk of the rebel or if there's something I can do to make that a bit smoother.
My current list of items to replace, fix, check, etc, is: Check brake fluid, change if necessary Check hoses, change if necessary Clean the carb Probably change the oil Replace front brake pad Research what needs done to the drum brake and do it if I can Hopefully fix the throttle issue if that's even possible on my own
If there's anything I'm missing or any advice y'all have about the stuff I mentioned above, I'm happy to hear it. Also, any reliable sources of mechanical how-to guides would be appreciated. I'm not innately mechanically gifted, but I'm very good at following instructions.
submitted by GoldilocksBurns
to motorcycles [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 22:00 KurtyBoy83 My engine is misfiring, and I'm not sure why
I have a 2006 Honda Ridgeline that's misfiring, and the 6th cylinder is the issue. I've replaced the coil packs, and the spark plugs (twice), and it still comes up as an issue. It doesn't idle weird, or funky, but when I drive it, it putters when I accelerate, and only when I accelerate. I don't know if it's either a blown gasket, or if it could be caused by a damaged piston. I just need to know what I'm looking to fix, before I bring it to a shop.
submitted by KurtyBoy83
to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 21:56 youzies 2013 528i xDrive headlight
Hi! Apologies in advance for how long this is and if this is an easy solution and I’m asking a dumb question.
My boyfriend has a BMW (his first) and started having condensation in his left headlight, making his lights go out and such, and it got so bad it even started creating codes for the right one (even though nothing is wrong with it). My brother is a Honda mechanic and took a look at it, fixed the codes and sealed what he thought was the leak where water was getting in, but said the wiring was toast from water damage. He was going to find a cheap replacement off eBay or something for my bf to buy, but when he looked up the vin we discovered his headlights are the fancy HID with the automatic adjust headlamps, and from what we’ve searched on the internet, even used ones are crazy expensive.
Since BMWs are out of my brother’s area of expertise, I thought I’d come here. So my big question is, could we get a headlight with just halogen bulbs? We’re worried having a left headlight with halogen and the right still with the fancy stuff is going to cause wiring issues or mess something up.
submitted by youzies
to BmwTech [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 21:55 bigbanktakeliIbank 2007 Triumph Daytona 675 (VIN 299988)
Hello. I am stumped with my bike. It all started earlier this year in January when it died on me and I got stranded while riding on the freeway. Everything shut off and the dash went black except for the side “position” or “courtesy” lights right next to my low and high beam and taillights.
When I checked the battery after getting stranded, it was full. (It’s a brand new battery). So that means my stator is charging the battery properly. I checked my fuse box, there was a 10 amp blown. Swapped fuse, no help. Dash wouldn’t even light up when key on and kill switch set to run. Anyways, I couldn’t figure out the issue, so I replaced the entire wiring harness. That did nothing.
So eventually I decided to give a replacement ECU a shot. Got a used ECU for cheap, bike started right up after that. I was like, “ok I guess that was the issue.” Bike worked for about a month doing commutes to/from work no issues. Then It died again in the exact same manner about a month ago (everything shuts off while doing 80mph cruising on freeway). Can’t get anything to turn back on. Battery still full.
The fuse that blew both times(and keeps blowing any time I put a new one in and key is in on position) is a 10 amp fuse for the ignition switch but I got a brand spankin new ignition switch straight from triumph after the first incident.
Something is fishy too because both times the bike died, my brand new low beam bulbs blew at the exact moment the bike shut off for good.
Any help is greatly appreciated
submitted by bigbanktakeliIbank
to Fixxit [link] [comments]
2023.06.10 21:54 Throwwayaccount2206 MBP 2015 A1502 not charging
Yesterday while using my MacBook Pro retina 13” 2015 A1502 , it did get unplugged while I moved it off the table but as soon as the magnetic charger touched the charging port, it immediately shut off. The charger no longer was working for some reason, it had been working fine prior (third party charger) , my MacBook has recently had its battery replaced (14 cycles) and battery health is pristine. My MacBook is now dead and I can’t get it to charge at all, tried PRAM resetting , don’t know if my SMC reset attempt went through but neither work now.
submitted by Throwwayaccount2206
to macbookpro [link] [comments]