2018 honda civic ac compressor replacement

My stock alternator started giving me issues recently so I went ahead and swapped it in for an Autozone Duralast alternator. After installing the AZ alternator the dash battery light now flashes intermittently while test driving it around the block. Everything is set up correctly, it seems to be working fine putting out 14v with lights and AC on while parked, idling and revving. So my guess is the AZ alternator is not putting out a consistent voltage while on the test rides.
I've worked on cars for 15-ish years and I know some cars just do not like aftermarket electronics. I've used aftermarket alternators on an 07 Civic and 98 Accord with no issues. So I just would like to ask if anyone has had any luck using Autozone Duralast alternators on an 05 Civic 1.7 without any problems. That way I know if I should exchange it for another one or return it and try my luck with a used oem Honda. TIA.

We just did our first camping trip of the year and on the first night the AC failed and I smelled an electrical burning smell. I shut it off until I could get home and investigate and discovered what looks like a capacitor has failed and catches on fire whenever the compressor tries to start up.
Before I go down the rabbit hole of repairing this thing, should I just consider it terminal? This is an r22 unit from 2004. It has run solidly until this failure.
Is it possible the capacitor is the only thing that has failed and if I replace this capacitor I'll be okay? Or did the capacitor fail because the compressor is in trouble? No one is a fortune teller but I'm hopeful you guys can give me the probabilities before I dig in.
Edit: I added photos in replies. Thanks!

Hello everyone, so I purchased a second hand camry 2 years ago that had AC leak (didnt know then during chicago winters). When summer hit, I realised theres a leak and spent $500 with 5 mechanics (dye and senser technology used) but no one were able to detect the leak. Ihv resorted to using $9 cans every time I need to use my car during june july aug months in chicago for over 2 hours. The recharge lasts me about 24 hours. Ik this is a cheaper alternative considering im living in chicago which has most days where you do not need AC.
But I wanted to hear to your stories of where and how did you find minor leaks? And if Im not able to find a leak, is it okay to replace the whole AC system (one by one) to see if the issue is resolved? I do not wanna sell my first car and willing to spend $1500 max on second hand parts to replace the current one. Do you think replacing the whole AC unit at once is better than going one by one starting from condensor (coz thats where most leaks occur) to low press and high pressure hose to compressor or whatever that is called.

Hi I bought my car in 2020 with 72 monthly payment for $281. I thought I could manage it but I was only making $30,000/yr at the time so I’d say it was a huge financial mistake. This was also before I knew of the 15% rule for cars which now says I have a budget of max $534 because my take home income is $3624.
I recently came to realize I spend over $335 a month in phantom costs (gas, insurance, parking). So in total I spend around $616 per month for a car that’s used for commuting around town.
My idea: Trade-in my 2018 Hyundai Elantra for $10,000-13,000. I would get $0-$3000 positive equity towards a new car and go with a cheaper model with 48 month payments of no more than $190. My credit score is 755 so interest won’t be too high.
I’m at $70,000 now so I could afford it if I cut into my savings and spending money but after 3 years of being broke behind this car I’d rather just start over with lower payments for a car that I’ll keep forever (which was my intention with this car initially). I have 3 years of payments left which feels like a lot.
If I sell my car and lower my car payments to $190 a month that would lower my fixed costs every month. They currently take up 70% of my paycheck every month so saving is really hard.
Would this be beneficial for me financially in the long run? Or even in the short term?
I’d rather be able to save more money than continue to pay for this car. I’d be perfectly happy driving something from 2012. I just don’t want to wind up paying more money. I have about $10,000 left on my loan and my car is worth about $13,000. I think I’ve paid around $7,000 for it so far.
I’m looking to get a used Honda Civic or Toyota Camry. I have $2000 for a down payment.
If I keep paying my loan will that result in more positive equity for me? I would ideally make a purchase in October or around Black Friday.
TLDR: spent too much on car payment initially. will it be beneficial to sell my car for a used one to get lower car payments?
I live in Baltimore btw.

A couple weeks ago I tired turning my ac on and it never blew cold air. The fan turns on and blows out air and I checked the Freon and the PSI was around 50. What can it be ? Do I have to replace my AC compressor should I look for other solutions first in case it’s something else ?

Anyone running carshield or any other warranty on their subie?
Got my first WRX through Carvana about two months ago. 2016 WRX 64k miles $21k Under their warranty I've had my front bumper repaired, driver side window regulator and trimming replaced. In the shop now for an ac compressor, clutch replacement and alignment.
However, only got about 200 miles left of their warranty. Considering carshield warranty now.
Would it be worth it? Any experiences with it?
Appreciate y'all! 🙏🏻🤝🏻

Hi So my AC compressor isn’t working. It’s at the right amount of freon, but still is blowing hot. Are there common issues that I don’t know about that might be the cause? I’m just shy of 100k miles, so I have no idea why it wouldn’t be working. Also, how hard is the compressor replacement? I’m an experienced home mechanic, but I really don’t want to have to drop the engine or anything. Thanks!

Hey guys,
I’ve reached my technical limit regarding ACs while troubleshooting my RV’s AC. It’s a 2018 Dometic. Problem is little to no cool, maybe a 10 degrees delta from ambient and worse, it’s icing. We’re talking a thick layer not just frost.
Cleaned both sets of coils with water / compressed air which helped but not a great deal. Happened to take the attached picture about 5-10 minutes after turning it on - icing in the middle of the coil. Have a hot liquid line but a “cool” other line, not cold. Compressor appears to be working as intended as well as the fan. Any advice before I replace the thing or bend over for a dealer would be greatly appreciated!
https://imgur.com/a/i2ca82D/

I brought it to a mechanic the first time this happened, had the compressor changed because it was blowing off freon with steam (as you can see, same as the video), after changing the compressor he filled it up and saw that the vacuum was holding. It worked for a couple of days but than did the same sound again! My car stalled from RPM drops and hard (only in idle) and all the Freon came blasting out from compressor release valve and AC stopped working. I went back to the mechanic who checked it again, he had the car for 1 week, I come and get it, he filled it up checked the compressor and said everything was fine. They even drove it around on the road, was all good. I take the car and 2 days later AGAIN! the compressor shoots out Freon!
It goes as follows :
RPMs start to go down hard
Car shakes
Compressor starts making loud release sound (Steam release)
Steam comes out and liquid from bottom
AC Stops working, car stalls out sometimes.
I am so fed up with this!!! I feel like I cannot win, its so hot outside! I hate this!! Please help! Video of what happens in post. Sound on please.
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https://reddit.com/link/140nfno/video/p975sqvk124b1/player

https://reddit.com/link/140nds7/video/b48wm04zx14b1/player
Civic 2009 4 Door 1.8 gas engine.
I brought it to a mechanic the first time this happened, had the compressor changed because it was blowing off freon with steam (as you can see, same as the video), after changing the compressor he filled it up and saw that the vacuum was holding. It worked for a couple of days but than did the same sound again! My car stalled from RPM drops and hard (only in idle) and all the Freon came blasting out from compressor release valve and AC stopped working. I went back to the mechanic who checked it again, he had the car for 1 week, I come and get it, he filled it up checked the compressor and said everything was fine. They even drove it around on the road, was all good. I take the car and 2 days later AGAIN! the compressor shoots out Freon!
It goes as follows :
RPMs start to go down hard
Car shakes
Compressor starts making loud release sound (Steam release)
Steam comes out and liquid from bottom
AC Stops working, car stalls out sometimes.
I am so fed up with this!!! I feel like I cannot win, its so hot outside! I hate this!! Please help! Video of what happens in post. Sound on please.
​
Not sure if maybe it could be related to my IAC control going out maybe? The AC causes my car RPM to drop a lot and the whole car shakes, sometimes it will stall at idle. If it doesn’t the next step that happens is the compressor starts shooting our Freon. Could it be the compressor is not getting enough power from the engine causing it to not compress as well allowing liquid to go in it, making it over pressurize?

Hi, I own a 2012 Honda Civic LX coupe with 193,000 miles and I am the second owner. I’ve recently found another car i’m interested in for $8k so I was considering trading-in or privately selling my car for the new one. My car is completely paid off, in great condition (nothing wrong except some paint chips around the bumpers and some white spots on engine parts due to weathering from relocation of the car) I take amazing care of it by handwashing, polishing, and waxing it. Interior has no stains or anything of the sort. New alternator put in, new $800 tires on it, and admittedly some pretty rusted rims but lightly scratched hubcaps. Car runs absolutely perfectly. Would it be realistic to expect to either trade-in or privately sell the car for $8k?
Timing belt has not been replaced while ive owned it, and the previous owner got into a minor accident which caused the paint chips. I got a color matched paint pen from the local honda dealership to fix most of the paint chips.
If images would help, I can send in DM

I've replaced my ac compressor and I'm trying to recharge the system with small 6oz cans but it seems to be taking forever. I've connected the compressor directly to the battery to manually engage the clutch.
The brass coupling on the can is cold so refrigerant seems to be going in. I'm weighting the can and it is getting lighter but it's taking forever. Is this normal?
I purge the hose attached to the can using a cap from a sharpie and the pressure drops and it hisses for a second then stops. I thought it would continously hiss, so maybe the tap or something isn't open wide enough?

Hello car friends! So I currently drive a 2004 honda Accord that’s kinda starting to fall apart underneath me and scare me a little. Also the AC doesn’t work and I live in south texas heat. I’m not really looking to fix the issues because it would exceed the value of the car at this point. Here’s the scenario I’m working out… I’m looking into buying a used 2016 Honda Civic EX-T. I’m seeing it in the price range from 16k-19k everywhere I look. I don’t really have a lot of money saved up, but my next paycheck is going to be about 3K and I have no bills I need to pay with that. My credit score is 708 at the moment. I can very easily pay the monthly payments as I make about 65k a year. Is this a doable scenario to walk into it with 3k only?

Hello, Thanks for your help, hvacadvice!
I am having issues with my admittedly very old compressor (70s?) but wanted to process here to see what is or isn't normal.
There are certain days when it's in the upper 80sF or so outside, and my HVAC closet gets very warm inside. My HVAC closet is completely indoors in the middle of my unit, not outside on a balcony or anything. The heat in the room seems to coming from the water lines to my HVAC unit where the chilled water from the apartment building's cooling tower is supposed to be coming from.
The water lines are hot to the touch and truly radiate heat. Is this normal? (Shouldn't the water from the cooling tower be...cooler?) I can't tell if it's above the 90°F number I keep reading about that shuts off compressors, but the metal pipes being hot to the touch suggest to me that it is pretty warm. For reference, the ambient temperature of my apartment according to the thermostat is usually around 79°F.
I turn on my AC pretty sparingly, but usually the times I want to turn it on coincide with the times the water intake lines are feeling hot to the touch and radiating heat. I have noticed my compressor shuts off when the water coming in is too hot. But when the water lines (at least from external touch) are a lower temperature again, the compressor works just fine.
Case in point: yesterday outside temps were around 85°. Apartment was getting hot. Checked HVAC closet, pipes were very warm to the touch. Tried to turn on AC cooling, compressor kept shutting off. Overnight, temperatures dropped to the 50s F. This morning it's around 60°, checked the pipes and they are normal temperature (lukewarm) to the touch, HVAC is running as happily as can be all morning.
So yes, I am absolutely planning to replace my whole HVAC unit with a brand new one. No doubt the compressor is very old and way past its prime.
My concern is: is there also a potential problem with my building's cooling tower functioning? Or maybe a water flow issue with my part of the loop for the chilled water? Or is it normal that sometimes the cooling tower water will simply just be pretty hot but a new compressor could handle it?
Thank you! I don't want to switch out all new HVAC equipment only to have it damaged or stymied by a system issue.

If anyone is interested in purchasing send me a DM. looking to get rid of this car as soon as its out of the body shop getting a fender replaced. a Bambi ran into the side of the car. Looking to get $30k out of it flat.
Please don't ask me if i can do lower. Im already losing $11k as is. Just want to be done with this god damn nightmare Downgraded to a 2006 Honda civic. This will be my last new car purchase have never lost so much money so quickly i will honestly probably do $30k someone just come get this thing out of my driveway in 2 weeks when the damage from the bambi is fixed.
Car was purchased brand new MAY 1st. No one is going to give you a better deal than this one. Basically just asking for help and hoping one of you fine folks can lend a hand and take this, Its brand new has 2461 on the dashboard, Ceramic coated and PPF'd i really did want to keep this car but i never should have bought it in the first place so someone please send me a DM and take this very very nice car off my hands
Onxy Black
Will provide VIN on request. I got gouged on the MSRP so you dont have to, this is the most amount of money ive ever lost in a month so someone please scoop this up
Damage from Bambi messed up the fender by the door, Insurance is fixing right now will have minor damage on the report on carfax (its being fixed by Hyundai dealership in Long island NY)
Reason for sale. Im honestly extremely upset it got hit by a deer, Also does not get the gas milage hyundai claims.... i drive 30k miles a year for work so this car was just a fucking bad idea from the jump. Also eats through tires, had to lay out $600 for 2 new ones from pot hole damage the day i left the dealership. I knew that very second it was a bad decision.
will leave this post up for 1 week if no one wants it its going back to the dealership as a trade

Update: Solved! I screwed the can down too tight and it essentially sealed up and didn't let any refrigerant through. I loosened the can a smidge and the freon went through and now the ac works.
So i bought this truck a month ago, ac never worked last guy didn't know why. It looks like the compressor is new as it's shiny and the rest is dirty. I replaced the ac condenser as most of the fins were bent. Pressurized the system with air to check for leaks. No leaks. Replaced the ac accumulator because I opened up the system. Bought a vacuum pump and pulled a vacuum for an hour to boil off the moisture.
Then here is where it gets weird. In Chrisfix's video he says screw down the valve on the can tap and then bring it back up so that freon go flow through and then you can purge the air. On mine it didn't work and then the instructions on my valve say to leave it screwed down but it didn't matter as I couldn't get it to purge like he did. I went ahead started the car with ac on and opened up the low side valve (that was under vacuum) and it started taking refrigerant. (This is in WA so r134 is banned but someone on Facebook marketplace sells them for $30 a can) I ended up wasting the first can and screwed up so I had only 12 oz in (sticker on truck says it takes 1lb 9oz. So I closed the valve and went and got a second can. Same thing, purging air doesn't work. I went ahead anyway start the truck but when I open the low side valve the freon won't go in. The sight glass doesn't have anything moving through it. I hold the can high or low, shake it, twist the valve on the can tap down or twist it up but nothing. So I only have one can in but the ac clutch kicks on and off at idle. In Chrisfix's video, even one can in, his was running fine. Is that part of my problem? I'm so frustrated with this, I'm hoping someone can help me. I'll even Venmo beer money to whomever can help me with a solution.
For legal reasons this is a hypothetical scenario in my Minecraft server.

I Have a 2018 1500 with about 80k miles on it. Recently it got warm enough in my area to run the air conditioning for the first time this year. No luck. Won’t cool. I watched under the hood and the compressor isn’t even kicking on, which I believe it won’t even attempt to run the compressor if the Freon is too low? So at this point I’m assuming sometime between the end of last summer and now I lost all my Freon.
After a little googling I see a lot of talk about a possible common issue with trucks around the same year as mine having a weld fail on the condenser and that there could possibly be a recall. I called my local dealer and was told there wasn’t a recall.
So rn I’m pondering what to do. Have any of you guys heard of trucks like mine having a similar issue? Should I try to save some money and just refill it with Freon and risk the cost of the refrigerant see if that fixes it and lasts or should I take it into Chevy and pay the $150 diag fee for them to just tell me the condenser will need replaced just like I’m worried it will?
Also, worst case it is a leak on a weld on the condenser, can anyone help with a ballpark figure for what it would cost a dealer / shop to handle it?
I’m happy to answer any questions and give more info if needed, thanks a bunch guys!

I have a 2012 1.4l turbo Lt, air conditioning quit working and thew the 0597 code. Replaced thermostat with one from oriellys. Old thermostat tested bad with ohm meter, new one tested good. Cleared codes and still throwing code, no ac and don't think the radiator fan is kicking on. Checked fuses, switched around relays and checked connections on compressor and temp sensor. What else could cause this? TiA

I posted before about an issue regarding my engine knocking. I got it to a shop and was quoted $1500 to replace the compressor and other stuff since it's necessary for warranty. My question is, my car shifts differently if I ever put the AC on and I'm not sure if it's normal. Without AC it drives like the clutch is worn out a bit but with AC it drives like the clutch is responsive and quick to drop the RPM. I also want to know since I can't get the compressor and stuff replaced right now.. can I just cut the belt for the time being until I can get the AC done? (was told the compressor bearing is worn out)