I am 10 years in the field with school, a journeyman, and considered a trane tech. Today for my first call i had 3 repairs. Gathered all materials according to materials list. The technician that was there that wrote up all repairs was with me today is middle aged and ~30years in the field, to keep it broad. All 3 repairs were at a elementary school with roof access inside and secured doors so we had an escort. The "senior tech" got out of his van, brought 0 tools, carried 0 parts, and was on his phone the entire morning...
As we entered the school and passed kids that are probably first and second grade, he was still on the phone having a loud, heated argument with someone else on speaker, passing all the kids, teachers, staff, and our POC as an escort.. At this point i am mortified and don't want to even say anything and kind of hurried along since i know where the roof access is. We got to the roof to perform repair#1, replace a failed condenser fan motor blade and the dual capacitor. replaced all parts as he sits on his phone for the 1.5hours while i work on a roof top fishing the wires.
i perform the start up and found the compressor is mechanically seized up, running at 43amps and LRA at 53, RLA is 15. I attached gauges and this thing is FLAT.... he comes over and said oh its flat? I told him compressor is also locked up. He proceeds to tell me that it was running "just fine" when he was there a month ago, and since the rtu had power shut off. I looked over and flipped shit, I told him there's no way a compressor fails by sitting there for a month with no power, and that the condenser fan motor most likely failed, ran high head pressure, blew a leak, then since there's no safeties the compressor ran itself into the ground and he can STFU and not Bullshit a fat fucking lie... I've seen his maintenances he performs and i could train a green tech who is eager to learn to perform it better.
At this point he goes down to his van, and I start on the other 2 repairs. Found out all the parts he wrote up were just wrong and it wasn't the guy purchasing them in the office who messed up. I asked him to go get the parts with a list needed at the supply house 12 minutes away, since I recommended a new unit and fill out the information to replace it. he doesn't come back for TWO HOURS.... the supply house had all parts needed. after that call I told my dispatcher and he was just sent home.
Call back for call #4, i arrive and checked in. Found the rtu tripped a 200amp breaker. A refrigerant leak search and repair was performed ~1 month ago that was flat. said it was **"The shrader core"** by that technician... I took 5 seconds since it was a Trane that it was the hot gas header, and now that compressor is grounded...
Thank you for reading and thank god its the weekend.. time to drink. Please just be honest and just look over the whole unit for your write ups. just own up to mistakes, like how I shorted out a thermostat, i just replaced it and moved on no need to lie and say it was just bad.

So a little over a year ago I rebuilt the 4.0 in my 2004 wrangler, found out it had busted piston skirts, bad lifter and burnt valves on the head. That was dec 2021.
https://www.reddit.com/Jeep/comments/qq19c6/in_frame_rebuild_for_my_2004_40_sounded_like_a/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1
https://www.reddit.com/Jeep/comments/rjxu2getting_closer_update_on_the_in_frame_rebuild/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=ioscss&utm_content=1&utm_term=1
I ended up getting it all back together and was fighting low oil pressure and crazy vacuum problems. I put in undersized crank bearings and a high volume oil pump and put the ccv elbows in the valve cover in the right spot and I had been nearly daily driving it for around 10k miles with no problems. Then an emergency braking ( or lack of) situation put it back under the knife in February this year. Emergency stop with 33’s, no ABS, or functioning rear brakes doesn’t make for the best stopping distance and I rear ended another vehicle on my way home from work one evening.
Ended up smashing the front end pretty good, airbags deployed, and it wouldn’t run. At the time it had a 3 inch body lift, (bought it that way) the force from the accident actually deformed the body on the mounts, but luckily frame and all running gear was fine.
I was able to rebuild it. And here is a link of the pictures of the progress…
https://imgur.com/a/GNFbcke
First thing I did was get rid of all the damaged parts, good, grill, fenders, radiator, ac condenser,fan and clutch, and power steering pump pulley.
I started putting it back together to see if it would run. I replaced the fan and clutch, the power steering pulley and put the belt back on just to see if it would fire. It didn’t. I had no gauges and it would t fire, it would crank without any bad sounds though so that was a good sign. Turns out the fender got pushed back into the firewall and damaged the ECM. Used one on eBay that was for the same year, engine, and transmission, plugged it in and and it fired right up.
I still had no radiator or cooling so I didn’t run it long but drove it into the yard to try and straighten the body mounts. I was slightly successful, pulled from the bumper with board against a tree and the firewall to hold the body but pull the frame to shift everything. It’s still offset a bit but it was a little better.
I decided I didn’t like the 3 inch body lift, too much hanging down under the body and you could still see the lean in the body mounts exaggerated because of the height. Also the extensions on the grill mounting locations broke, so I started looking for a new body mount set. I ended up getting a 1 inch body lift because I could get it with all new mounts and new bolts cheaper than going back with original, so I changed those out.
Since I got it running it was time for bodywork.
I got a used grill on Facebook marketplace and a new hood ( Houston auto parts.com was 240 cash and I picked it up, new stamping but I can tell it’s thinner gauge) and I painted them with rustoleum gloss black and a rattle can 2k clear coat in my barn. For anyone wondering it’s not a perfect match for px8 paint code, looks more brown in direct sunlight but it works for me for now hahah.
For fenders I found a used set that had been cut and got the smittybilt tube fenders, both of those together would be cheaper than new fenders and flares so I went that route.
Got a new ac condenser on Amazon, used radiator on fb marketplace, new radiator support rods that tie to the firewall from eBay, and bolted everything together, filled up the radiator and found the water pump leaking. So took everything back apart to replace the water pump.
I replaced the back brakes, new drums and shoes and now those work and I have a parking brake now.
After that since mechanically it was good, I pulled the whole dash apart to replace the airbags, got those on eBay. They are not easy to replace let me tell ya. Also ended up having to replace the steering wheel clock spring also, but after that no airbag light on dash and everything is back together.
Now it’s all back together and I’ve gotten a little over 1000 miles on it. This thing is a love hate relationship. Ended up right under $3k on repairs.
Just Empty Every Pocket

EDIT: I realize that I should have included make/model info. I'll have to get that and edit it in here. Sorry.
I'm a small-time landlord, having just one condo that I rent out. My tenant complained that the AC wasn't working. The AC system (condenser & evaporator) is something like eight years old. I went out and sure enough it was hot inside, the furnace blower was cranking out warm air, and the outdoor condenser and fan weren't running. The thermostat was set appropriately ("cool", and the temperature at a reasonable setting). As part of initial diagnosis, I popped the thermostat off the wall and gave it new batteries. I also looked around in the furnace, looking for loose wires, plugged condensate line, or anything else I might find. After all that messing about, I realized that the condenser motor and fan were running and the blower was blowing cold air.
Out of curiosity, I put the old batteries back in the thermostat, and it continued to work correctly. Out of caution, I put the new batteries back in. The thermostat itself was only about four years old. Maybe poor connections to the thermostat? I retightened all the wire connections to the thermostat base, but none seemed loose.
I instructed my tenant (we're on friendly terms) that if it failed again, he should try popping the thermostat off and back on its base.
The system worked for some weeks, then failed again. Popping the thermostat off and on did not fix it. I was out of town, and before I made it back into town, the tenant reported that the AC had spontaneously started working again.
That's the situation now. I would like to isolate the failure and implement a reliable repair while I'm here (I travel quite a bit).
Please give me suggestions on what to test or refurbish.
Alternatively, if I can provoke it into failure, I can call a pro and supervise everything while I'm here, instead of having to handle it all long distance.
Also, a question: am I correct in thinking that the fan motor in the outdoor condenser unit does not depend on the capacitor to start or run, that the capacitor is there only for the condenser motor? In other words, if the problem was the capacitor, the fan would have been running (recall that in my first evaluation, the fan was stopped)?
I'm thinking that it might be the contactor in the condenser unit outdoors being internally sticky, and messing around with the thermostat just turned the control line on and off enough to unstick it for a while. Is this at all plausible? Should I preemptively replace it?
Many thanks for any advice you can give.

Last summer, my condenser fan broke, which caused the motor to break. I replaced both, and promptly blew the run capacitor. Replaced that.
This spring, the condenser fan initially kicks on about 1/3 of the time, needs help getting going about another 1/3 of the time, and won’t go at all the other 1/3 of the time. From what I can tell, it could be the start capacitor. However, no matter what, it never kicks back on on its own after it’s already been running. Also, it’ll sometimes stops prior to reaching the set temp and won’t turn back on.
It’s a couple of decades old, and I’m inclined to put in a new condenser so that I’m not stuck in the middle of the summer needing an AC tech to make a weekend or holiday call. I’ve called a few of the HVAC places in town to send someone out for an estimate, and I never lead with the work that I’ve done. I just say that it had some repairs done last summer, is not working again, and that I’d rather just replace it than try to hold it together for another summer. So far they have either no-showed on the appointments or said that they can’t make it out and to call back if it stops working altogether.
I thought these places would have sales reps itching to come out and tell me that the whole unit needs to be replaced. Should I keep calling a say something different? Or just replace the start capacitor and hope for the best?

Original from the other day: https://www.reddit.com/hvacadvice/comments/13zwgwq/ac_breaker_tripped_on_main_panel_turned_system/
TLDR: Replaced the fan. Wasn’t terribly difficult
Furnace blower was running but outside unit was off. After seeing the basement A/C 220 breaker tripped, I powered everything down and did a visual inspection of the furnace, coils, and outdoor condenser unit. I reset the breaker, while the app for the furnace was still set to “off”.
I went outside and watched the condenser unit and set the system to demand cool. The unit switched on and I saw the motor try to turn but was arcing and wouldn’t spin. My first step was to quickly as possible turn it off so I reached down and killed the outdoor service disconnect.
I also dialed the app to off to make sure it didn’t try to restart. I also pulled the breaker for A/C that had tripped before.
Pushing a stick through the top of the condenser unit, the blades were stiff and wouldn’t move easily. Seemingly the motor has seized up.
If it’s only this, I felt like I would be ok swapping a motor out.
I found the model number of the AC unit. That was not very helpful in narrowing down the motor needed but pulling the top off to get to the motor, I could see the motor model information.
I went to the local Grainger store and they had the exact one I needed for $130. I also bought a new cap because it’s cheap enough to buy now rather than make another trip back there if the existing one didn’t work for the new motor. With tax and the cap, I’m in for $150.
Got home, and based on advice elsewhere, I got the fan motor assembly disassembled and of course, the shaft was impossible to separate from the fan blades. I had to source a gear puller to extract the blades from the shaft. The PB blaster was also a good callout.
Once I did that, I for the motor off the mount, lined up the new motor, mounted it, reinstalled the fan blades, set screw to hold it in, routed the wiring through to where they needed to go, and for the top back on the unit.
The wiring was confusing at first but I had taken photos first. The existing cap is a dual run and I wasn’t familiar with it so I looked it up to see how what wiring was in place was working and saw that the old motor was running the brown wire to the 5mfd terminal which had another jumper to a 2.5mfd, which adds up to 7.5mfd. The new motor also called for a 7.5mfd, so the new motor brown wire went to the same place the old one was connected. Old motor has purple and black, new motor has white and black. I kept the black to black, and the white to where the purple was connected before.
Once the wiring was done and the top back on, I engaged the service disconnect, reset the breaker, and came back outside to watch the unit as I switched it back on in the app.
Fired right up and the airflow was going the correct direction. (Everything suggested it would the way the old motor turned and the new one was also CCW by default). Let it run a minute, checked for cold air inside on a register, all good. Turned system back off and tightened up all the screws and buttoned everything up.
All said and done: about $175 in parts (I had to buy a gear puller, but for $20 it was worth it), a few hours of my time, and I’m back in business.
Edit: closer to $190. I bought a bottle of coil cleaner and sprayed it on and let it work while I was doing the other bits. Figure cleaning the coils out was a good idea while the unit was open.

I'm trying to install a AWUF310516 2.5t wall mount air handler to a heat pump condenser. For the first time I'm wiring into the ECM module instead of a control board I'm comfortable with. Also the air handler presents a contactor on the inside which confused me. I did the basic wiring of Reds together, reversing valve(b) together, yellows together for cooling call, off the contactor they seem to come off with a white and brown common. The current set up of the old unit was brown for common so I put them together for common. I put white's for heat together from therm/condenser. I tried firing up the system and set to cooling but it would never give me 24v to yellow(cooling). So I don't know if I'm messing up at the contactor or hooking a speed tap from the motor to Y. I connected G(fan) to Green from the motor and the speed tap for the cfm I needed (pink). Sorry rooking at ECM wiring.

When it comes to maintaining a comfortable indoor environment, having a well-functioning air conditioning system is paramount. In Gauteng, where temperatures can soar during hot summer months, ensuring that your air conditioning unit is in top-notch condition is crucial for providing effective cooling and a pleasant living or working space. However, like any mechanical system, air conditioners may encounter issues from time to time, requiring professional repairs to restore their optimal performance. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of air conditioning repairs Gauteng, providing valuable insights and expert advice to help you overcome any cooling challenges you may face.
Understanding Common Air Conditioning Problems
Before we delve into the details of air conditioning repairs, it is essential to familiarize ourselves with the most common issues that air conditioners in Gauteng may encounter. By recognizing these problems early on, you can seek professional air-conditioning repairs Gauteng assistance promptly, preventing further damage and ensuring uninterrupted cooling comfort.
​

1. Insufficient Cooling: One of the primary complaints homeowners may have is inadequate cooling. This issue can arise due to various reasons, such as a malfunctioning compressor, refrigerant leaks, or clogged filters. An experienced air conditioning technician can diagnose the root cause and implement the necessary repairs to restore efficient cooling.
2. Strange Noises: Unusual sounds coming from your air conditioner can be indicative of underlying issues. Rattling, buzzing, or squealing noises may suggest problems with the fan motor, loose components, or a faulty belt. Identifying and addressing these noises promptly can help prevent further damage and costly repairs down the line.
3. Foul Odors: If your air conditioner emits unpleasant odors when in operation, it is essential to address the issue promptly. Musty smells could indicate mold or mildew growth within the unit, while a burning odor may point to electrical problems. A professional technician can identify the source of the odor and perform the necessary repairs or cleaning to eliminate it.
4. Leaking Water: Water leakage from your air conditioner is not only an inconvenience but also a potential sign of an underlying problem. It could be caused by a clogged condensate drain line, a faulty condensate pump, or a refrigerant leak. Timely repairs can prevent water damage to your property and ensure the longevity of your air conditioning system.

The Importance of Professional Air Conditioning Repairs
While some minor air conditioning issues can be addressed with DIY approaches, it is strongly recommended to enlist the services of a professional air conditioning repair company in Gauteng. Here's why:
​

1. Expertise and Experience: Professional technicians possess the knowledge, skills, and experience necessary to diagnose and repair air conditioning problems effectively. They undergo extensive training and stay updated with the latest industry trends, ensuring that they can tackle any issue that may arise.
2. Proper Tools and Equipment: Air conditioning repairs often require specialized tools and equipment that professionals have readily available. Attempting to repair complex issues without the right tools can lead to further damage or personal injury.
3. Cost Savings in the Long Run: While professional repairs may come with a price tag, they can save you money in the long run. By addressing problems promptly and accurately, technicians can prevent more significant damage that would require costly repairs or even complete system replacements.
4. Warranty Protection: If your air conditioning unit is still under warranty, attempting repairs on your own or hiring an unqualified technician can void the warranty. Professional repairs ensure that your warranty remains valid, giving you peace of mind and added protection for your investment.

To ensure that your air conditioning repairs are carried out to the highest standard, it is crucial to select a reputable and reliable repair company in Gauteng.

Hi! Just had one of my condenser fan motor replaced, should I dispose the old one?

Or even for a professional tech, do older units have parts available through some channel?
I have a Bryant model 533gn036-b that came with the house. No idea the actual age but it's old enough nothing shows up on repairclinic and just the manual shows up on googling.
Wondering if anyone had any other suggestions on places to search for parts.

Hey hvacadvice, I have just purchased a used Genteq ECM 2.3 blower motor on craigslist for $20. My intent was to wire it up and use it, connected with filters, as a shop air cleaner. I'm very comfortable with electrical wiring, but I don't know if it's even possible to wire this thing up to a switch that I can simply flip to fire it up.
Am I at a dead end, or is there any way to make this project work? If it won't work, I'm only out $20, but I had hoped it would be possible.
Here are some pictures I took of the unit and the wiring:
https://imgur.com/a/5lOAs9i

My HVAC guys are coming out in a week to do annual service on my new houses AC.
It stopped working a few days ago, looking at it I'm fairly positive it's the condensing unit fan motocap based on it angrily humming when power is applied with about as much movement as two snails fucking in molasses.
Upon actual inspection instead of just being a lazy cunt, it's a 13SEER with decently damaged fins, like. I could rake it but I'd still look like a lot lizard dragged down a gravel road pretty.
So question is,
Is it worth the $200-300 to get a new motor or should I just start looking for a new unit that's actually efficient and not beat to fuck .
Lennox Central Air Conditioner Model 4AC13B36P-3A
Sincerely, not an HVAC Boi but a card carrying 608/609 certified Industrial Maintenance Technician

York furnace parts
Diagnostic Codes: Slow GreenNormal Operation - no call for heatSlow AmberNormal Operation - with a call for heat steady On RedControl failure

• Replace the control board (S9200U is a suitable replacement)

Rapid RedTwinning error, incorrect 24V phasing

• Try switching polarity at the transformer.

Rapid AmberLow flame sense current

• Clean flame sensor

4 AmberY present without G

• Low voltage wiring problem

1 RedFlame present with the gas off

• Stuck gas valve
• Shorted flame sensor
• Faulty control

2 RedPressure switch stuck closed

• Bad pressure switch
• The inducer fan relay stuck on

3 RedPressure switch stuck open

• Bad pressure switch
• Bad inducer fan
• Bad inducer fan relay
• Blocked or restricted vent
• Condensate drainage issue

4 RedLimit switch open/open fuse

• Bad limit
• Low airflow
• Over-Fired

5 RedRollout switch open/open fuse

• Bad switch
• Cracked heat exchanger
• Bad inducer motor
• Over-Fired

6 RedPressure switch opened 4 times

• Bad pressure switch
• Bad inducer fan
• Blocked or restricted vent
• Condensate drain issue

7 RedIgnition lockout due to 3 retries

• Bad igniter
• Dirty flame sensor
• No gas flow

8 RedFlame signal lost 5 times

• Dirty flame sensor
• Combustion air problem

9 RedGrounding or line polarity fault

• Try reversing the transformer power

10 RedFlame sensed with no call for heat

• Stuck gas valve
• Shorted flame sensor
• Faulty control

11 RedExtended limit switch open

• Bad limit
• Blower failure

12 RedOpen igniter circuit

• Bad igniter
• Loose wiring to the igniter

13 Red2nd Stage Pressure switch stuck open

• Bad pressure switch
• Bad inducer fan
• Blocked or restricted vent
• Condensate drain issue

My house, and A/C is about ten years old. last year we struggled with this all summer but had no issues with heat in the summer. we generally run the fan all the time.
seems like the A/C runs normally but there feels like very little airflow from the ducts. the air coming out of it seems cool, but there's no real force behind it. i'm kind of wondering how hard it should be blowing. I think the blower motor may be going out or something. How would I confirm before buying a new one?
AC techs checked it for me last year, cleaned the condenser outside, checked the interrupt, and verified the lines/and cooling was working as it should. they did replace the capacitor on the motor, but it didn't seem to help.
Wifes near ready to kill me if I don't figure this out soon.

The repair costs for air conditioning system issues can vary depending on several factors, including the nature and severity of the problem, the type and age of the system, the availability of replacement parts, and the labor rates in your area. Here are some common air conditioning system issues and their potential repair cost ranges:

1. Refrigerant Leak: Repairing a refrigerant leak and recharging the system can range from $200 to $1,500, depending on the location and severity of the leak.
2. Compressor Replacement: The cost of replacing a faulty compressor can range from $1,200 to $2,800, including parts and labor.
3. Capacitor Replacement: Capacitors are responsible for starting the air conditioner's motors. Replacing a faulty capacitor typically costs between $150 and $300.
4. Fan Motor Replacement: The cost of replacing a malfunctioning fan motor can range from $300 to $700, depending on the motor's type and specifications.
5. Thermostat Replacement: Replacing a faulty thermostat can cost anywhere from $100 to $300, depending on the complexity of the system and the type of thermostat being installed.
6. Circuit Board Replacement: If the circuit board controlling the air conditioning system malfunctions, the replacement cost can range from $200 to $600, including parts and labor.
7. Ductwork Repair: Repairing damaged or leaky ductwork may range from $300 to $1,000, depending on the extent of the damage and the complexity of the duct system.
8. Coil Replacement: Replacing a damaged evaporator coil or condenser coil can range from $1,000 to $2,500, including parts and labor.

It's important to note that these cost ranges are estimates and can vary significantly based on your location and specific circumstances. Additionally, emergency or after-hours repairs may incur additional charges. To get an accurate estimate, it is recommended to contact a reputable HVAC professional who can assess the problem and provide a detailed cost estimate for the necessary repairs.
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