Briggs and stratton 550 spark plug

My neighbor has this lawnmower and it starts, runs a few seconds then shuts off! We have changed;
the filter the spark plug even the carburetor
However it still gives the exact same problem!We ran out of ideas and have pretty much given up on YouTube so I am posting here for a possible solution before he decides to take it in to a repair shop! Any help would be appreciated!

2000 honda accord 2.3 manual trans. Car accelerates normally but when I'm sitting at any rpms it'll seem like the power cuts and stutters until I gas it. Throws codes about misfiring for all cylinders and random misfires. Checked the ignition system and it's all fine. Right now I'm checking the fuel level/pump but I don't have a pressure gage. Hear it can also be the Egr system, going to check it next. I'm thinking it'll be the egr valve, I'm having issues passing emissions with this car. Sat around for awhile cause I swapped the engine and I was told to drive it for 2 weeks to get it ready, but I couldn't pass. I replaced the air filter, pcv valve, spark plugs and wires, both o2 sensors and did a fuel treatment and it still didn't pass.

Right now i’m driving a 2007 Mazda 3 2.3 that has a misfire on cylinder 4. I already changed out the spark plug and it was fine but then the check engine light came back on and it’s still cylinder 4. Any tips? Is there something im missing or that I could’ve done wrong? I did change out the rest of the spark plugs too.

So I've been looking around on the internet and the information that I seem to find regarding the spark plugs is that the ngk silzkr6d8e is the correct spark plugs for this car. However I just took out my spark plug and read the number on it It is a ngk silzkr8e8g, so which one is it? And would I be fine with the 6d8e?

I just bought a used 2014 ktm 85, which was running rich and bogging. I was trying to fix this, by adjusting the air screw, when all of a sudden it just started revving to the moon. I started it a couple times after that, and it just kept on revving to the moon. Now when i try to kick it over, it doesn't want to start. When I try to bump start it, it almost starts but dies before it can turn over. The gas is a bit low, so that might be the issue to it not starting. The guy I bought it from said that the top end was ridden for 3 hours, and there is a brand new spark plug and oil change in it too.
Would it revving to the moon be the throttle sticking, or some other issue? Any help appreciated! Thanks!
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Hello chaps,
So, my computer (Windows, Asus TUF Gaming) works pretty well but these last two days it occasionally didn't pick up that the charger was plugged in. This was easily remedied by just turning the plug around. I thought it was some simple wear and tear.
But then when I tried turning the plug around just now, I see a new, small, circular hole in the cable and it starts making sparking noises. I unplug it, of course, and don't dare plug it back in.
I do wonder if it's possible to keep using the charger (with some kind of fix), or if it's a lost cause and I need a new one. If I need an entirely new one, awkwardly enough I don't know exactly how to find the specific one I need. I've already tried several others I had in my house but none fit. Worst case scenario, are there any USB B chargers out there?
Thanks!

I've got a 2005 Suzuki Drz125L, and it's having a problem where whenever I hit the throttle it backfires like crazy, I thought it was running to lean/rich,but I went through and cleaned and returned the carb and nothing changed, I've gone through and change my coil and spark plug wire, and went through and looked in the top end and everything. Bike starts up 1st kick, any help is appreciated.

I picked up an old Ferris 48” walk behind (model no. BG14KA, which I cannot find anywhere on internet) as a part of a deal.
I started by seeing if it had spark, it did not. So far I have replaced the igniter, and coil in an attempt to replace bad parts.
With the kill wire connected to the coil, there is no spark, but it will tickle my finger in the plug boot.
With the kill wire disconnected, I get a significant shock if I stick my finger in the plug boot, but no visible spark out of 3 different plugs.
The plugs have been tested and all show visible spark in a working mower.
After replacing the parts, I stuck the plug back in leaving the kill wire disconnected from the coil, and tried using the pull start with some starting fluid. The exhaust seems to shoot small puffs of white smoke, which to me means combustion, but the engine will not crank and I still don’t see visible spark.
I’m really not sure where to go from here, any input is appreciated, thank you. I am not a small engine tech by any means.

I have a yamaha jog rr 70cc and it used to hit 65 in its powerband which was almost instant to full throttle. About a week ago while riding its air filter fell off and i had to ride it back without one. After putting a new one on the bike was still bogging and sputtering and strugglet to go 35mph (would still hit powerband and climb to 60 when going downhill for long enough time) i cleaned out my carb and replaced the spark plug and it started on first kick but died after a second or two. I inspected the fuel line which had a huge bubble in it so i thought it was a fuel issue but on taking the carb apart again to make sure i put everything in right there was fuel in it so i am not sure what the issue is. Can anyone help?

(1994 4Runner 3VZE A/T 4WD)
As the title says, I just pulled out of the driveway yesterday and the CEL came on. Read the code and it was a 12. Unfortunately, the FSM is pretty cryptic about what it says for this code.

Open or short in NE, G circuit • Distributor • Open or short in STA circuit • ECM

(Anyone know what NE, G, or STA circuits stand for?)
So I recognize one of those words "Distributor" so I started looking at my distributor - put my hand on it and it gave me a shock! The shock was similar to when I had a cracked spark plug wire. So my first thought was spark plug wires. One at a time I unplugged each spark plug wire from the distrubutor and checked to see if I would get zapped again (stupid I know). I got zapped every time as I sequentially removed spark plugs so I'm guessing its not the wires but either the cap, rotor, or something with the coil.
I turned the car off, and removed the cap and some of the electrodes were kinda corroded. Some flakes came off of them. I gave them a good scrape with some 220 grit sandpaper and put it all back together, wiped the codes, but the CEL came back on.
Does anyone have any thoughts or past experiences here? Caps/rotors are cheap so already ordered one - should come in a week (rural Canada). I'll try to mist some water in there tn to see if I see where the arcing is coming from.

What the heck is wrong with my truck?
Excuse my grammar I’m on mobile.
I have multiple questions regarding my truck. I have a 1993 Ford F-250 with the ol reliable 4.9L 300 inline six.
Except mine is incredibly unreliable.
I bought this truck because my old truck ( 1990 K2500 5.7L 350) kept blowing transmissions ( 700R4). The first one I have no idea how it happened, the second one I accidentally overfilled ( live & learn), the 3rd one roatated 90° ( etc etc off topic)
So my questions regarding my 300 require backstory I will try to keep it short.
I actually drove it in November ( best friend’s brother got a dui & got evicted so I had to help him move his crap)
My chevy crapped out again in January so I bought my friends 300.
I drove it home without fluids ( I have a whole tiktok on it lol). It has no exhaust whatsoever, just the 2 pipes ( one comes from the read of the headers it looks like, the other from the front) it’s all stock & the 02 sensor is still in place just looks hacked off. However, the cat & muffler are connected by this singular hose to I think the EGR or the rear of the engine ( haven’t fully looked).
I bought glass packs & planned on straight piping it ( hate me I know).
It ran fantastic! Until about mid February. It had a hole in the fuel tank so I bought a “ new” tank & I replaced the fuel filter ( it was terrible! I have a tiktok on that as well). I then changed the oil, spark plugs & spark plug wires, roater & cap, fuses, pullys , relay, doors, fenders, vaccume lines, terminals & the battery cables.
It goes through serpentine belts about once a month ( I believe it’s the alternator pully)
Now i can start it up. Run it cold & it runs meh. I can go 50mph but the second I stop or it warms up it stalls like crazy. The only fix was replacing the spark plugs again. I towed about 1500lbs of gravel & it ran fine. Then 2 weeks later it stalls again once it hits operating temperature. Could it be the fuel pump?
Here are my questions.

1. I’ve read there is a lot you can “ delete” on the 300. What will a egr delete do? Pros?cons? function? I don’t mind a check engine light
   
2. What could be causing the stalling? It’s only after I get into 2nd or 3rd & then stop at a stop sign or traffic light ( if I even get to town)
   

I tend to play parts magnet but my only 2 guesses are timing ( I know it’s gear on gear but i have no idea what that means) and the fuel pump.

1. Any other advice on these engines ( 4.9 300l6) would be nice

I’m a self taught “mechanic” so I’m still learning & I just want my truck to run reliable.

Full Spectrum Kratom Tincture
Basic material: 16 oz Mason Jar, 190 proof food grade ethanol or Everclear, Distilled water, PH test strips, Citric Acid Powder, 250g powder (mix and match if you wish)
1) Put the powder into the Mason Jar 2) Add 3 parts alcohol and 1 part water * 3) Add teaspoon of citric acid 4) Use test trips to measure to PH of 4 5) Seal the jar and shake well 6) Store in a cool dark place for 3 weeks shake 1x per day
During the third week, put the jar in the freezer for 3 days. Then a couple afternoons in the sun. Do not shake the jar during the last week. Plant material will sink to bottom and you can just pour the tincture off the top. No need to strain.
Some people debate the value of letting it sit for 3 weeks. I had one guy tell me if I dropped the water and just shook it constantly for 30 minutes, that would extract 85% of the alkaloids. I'm not sure I believe him. The guy that taught me said it would only extract about 50%.
You could skip the freezer and sun if you want. The idea about the sun is it will help convert mit into 7 oh mit. Some people debate that and say it will deplete the mit altogether. I tried it, and mine turned out great!

• Also debatable is using the water. I preferred to lessen the alcohol a bit. But you could use all alcohol.

Estimating Dosage
This isn't exact, but it's better than nothing.I put my tinctures into tincture bottles with 1 ml eyedroppers, so I try to estimate dose pet milliliter.
Start with how many grams of powder are used. For example, let's say you used 300g powder. I think it's fair to say a well-done tincture will extract 75%. So that leaves you with the equivalent of 225g extracted.
Now, determine how many milliters of liquid you have. Most Mason jars have milliliter measures or at least ounce measures that can be converted to milliliters. For examples sake, let's say you have 550 milliliters of liquid extract.
225g ÷ 550ml = .41g per milliter. So, roughly 5 eyedroppers to get a 2g dose.
Just plug in your numbers to get the estimate.

Hey everyone I really need some help on an ongoing issue I been having over a year and half. I have a 2005 Corolla that has gotten me stranded more times than I can count due to a crank no start issue. I have had it inspected by many different mechanics and no one can find out the source of the problem.
I have had spark plugs changed, the starter, and a diagnostic check on the car but nothing is indicating what is causing the crank no start. The crank no start is pretty irregular and happens at the most inconvenient times but I hope someone can help me I am out of options.
My mechanic said it could be the fuel pump but is not too sure. The engine also is getting spark when the car is being cranked so that can’t be the issue.
Does anyone have any ideas?

Hey everyone I really need some help on an ongoing issue I been having over a year and half. I have a 2005 Corolla that has gotten me stranded more times than I can count due to a crank no start issue. I have had it inspected by many different mechanics and no one can find out the source of the problem.
I have had spark plugs changed, the starter, and a diagnostic check on the car but nothing is indicating what is causing the crank no start. The crank no start is pretty irregular and happens at the most inconvenient times but I hope someone can help me I am out of options.
My mechanic said it could be the fuel pump but is not too sure. The engine also is getting spark when the car is being cranked so that can’t be the issue.
Does anyone have any ideas?

Hey everyone I really need some help on an ongoing issue I been having over a year and half. I have a 2005 Corolla that has gotten me stranded more times than I can count due to a crank no start issue. I have had it inspected by many different mechanics and no one can find out the source of the problem.
I have had spark plugs changed, the starter, and a diagnostic check on the car but nothing is indicating what is causing the crank no start. The crank no start is pretty irregular and happens at the most inconvenient times but I hope someone can help me I am out of options.
My mechanic said it could be the fuel pump but is not too sure. The engine also is getting spark when the car is being cranked so that can’t be the issue.
Does anyone have any ideas?

I have a petty larceny from 2021. I’ve been turned away from Walmart, Target, UPS, FedEx and Amazon.
I’m 27. I have a 28% apr on my 2016 Honda fit with 170k that I’m trying to pay off in the next 2 years. $14k left. Bought it used at 110k on January 2022.
I’m doing all the right steps. I’m paying off my debt. I got a secured credit card for $200 to help rebuild. Im making my car payment on time. I’m able to put away $100 a week to put towards the car loan in every year, including regular maintenance.
Only problem is I’ve been doordashing for 3 years now, paying $540 in gas a month ($6,480 a year) and $1,800 a year on regular car maintenance( transmission fluid change, coolant flush, break flush, serpatine belt, spark plugs, breaks, tires, filters)... I make $630-$700 a week, $30,000-$32,000 a year but after maintenance and gas its really only $21k a year
My plan is to pay this car off in the next 2 years, rebuild my credit, and hopefully be able to work in one of the places I applied too and STOP doordashing full time.
There are restaurant jobs that pay $12 an hour. My question is, does that equal to the same amount that I am making after my $1,760 a year on maintenance and $6,480 a year on gas? How do I do the math of how much I make an hour AFTER gas and maintenance compared to a job that I don’t use my car making $12?
I always thought that doordash was worth it since I make $20 an hour, but it’s the first time I did the math on yearly maintenance and I’m starting to see what everyone says when they say doordash is not worth it.
I always thought “$100-$120 a day is good money! and you on your own time!!” but after $8,300 a year on gas and maintaining the car..is it really?

I have a petty larceny from 2021. I’ve been turned away from Walmart, Target, UPS, FedEx and Amazon.
I’m 27. I have a 28% apr on my 2016 Honda fit with 170k that I’m trying to pay off in the next 2 years. $14k left. Bought it used at 110k on January 2022.
I’m doing all the right steps. I’m paying off my debt. I got a secured credit card for $200 to help rebuild. Im making my car payment on time. I’m able to put away $100 a week to put towards the car loan in every year, including regular maintenance.
Only problem is I’ve been doordashing for 3 years now, paying $540 in gas a month ($6,480 a year) and $1,800 a year on regular car maintenance( transmission fluid change, coolant flush, break flush, serpatine belt, spark plugs, breaks, tires, filters)... I make $630-$700 a week, $30,000-$32,000 a year but after maintenance and gas its really only $21k a year
My plan is to pay this car off in the next 2 years, rebuild my credit, and hopefully be able to work in one of the places I applied too and STOP doordashing full time.
There are restaurant jobs that pay $12 an hour. My question is, does that equal to the same amount that I am making after my $1,760 a year on maintenance and $6,480 a year on gas? How do I do the math of how much I make an hour AFTER gas and maintenance compared to a job that I don’t use my car making $12?
I always thought that doordash was worth it since I make $20 an hour, but it’s the first time I did the math on yearly maintenance and I’m starting to see what everyone says when they say doordash is not worth it.
I always thought “$100-$120 a day is good money! and you on your own time!!” but after $8,300 a year on gas and maintaining the car..is it really?

Hello all, my bike burns tons of oil. I've had to put a about 2 quarts in it in the last couple hundred miles... It smokes (a lot) after it is warm, on a cold start up hardly any smoke at all. Did a compression test, cold the front cylinder was 155 and the rear was 160, hot was 160 and 160. From the state of the rear spark plug I'd say the rear is the one burning the oil, it even had oil on the plug lol. So what am I looking at here? What should be my next step?